Rideau River cruises: discovering the capital from the water — captain interview

In the heart of Canada’s capital, where the Rideau River gracefully weaves its way through Ottawa, there’s a unique perspective of the city that many visitors are now discovering — from the water. As the river meanders past lush parklands and historic landmarks, it offers a tranquil escape from the bustling streets above. At the helm of this serene experience is Captain Marc-André Lemieux, a seasoned navigator and the senior captain at Rideau Cruises Ltd. With a career that spans over two decades, including sixteen seasons on the Rideau Canal, Captain Lemieux is not only a master of the waterways but also a storyteller of the river’s rich history and its role in shaping the city.

Our conversation took place aboard one of Rideau Cruises’ vessels, a steady craft designed for leisurely exploration. As the boat gently rocked with the river’s motion, Captain Lemieux shared insights not only into his extensive career but also the myriad experiences one can have on Ottawa’s waterways. The following is a glimpse into his world — a world of charts, locks, and the quiet beauty of the Rideau.

Meet Captain Lemieux: sixteen seasons on the canal

Question: How did you come to be the senior captain at Rideau Cruises Ltd, and what has kept you navigating these waters for sixteen seasons?

Captain Marc-André Lemieux: It all began in 2007 when I joined Rideau Cruises Ltd after several years as a harbour pilot on the St Lawrence River. The transition to the Rideau Canal was quite natural for me. The canal, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has a rich history stretching back to 1832, and piloting here lets me share that history with our passengers. Each season, from May through October, I navigate the same 202-kilometre stretch from Ottawa to Kingston and yet, it never grows old. The changing seasons bring different challenges and beauty; spring floods, summer’s vibrancy, and the spectacular autumn colours.

Lemieux’s tenure on the Rideau is marked not only by the number of voyages but by the stories he has gathered along the way. Each journey unveils a new chapter, whether it’s a chance encounter with local wildlife or witnessing the intricate ballet of the lock systems — a marvel of 19th-century engineering that still functions today. His passion for the canal is evident, and his knowledge about the waterways’ historical significance is profound.

Question: What are some of the most memorable experiences you’ve had while working on the Rideau Canal?

Captain Marc-André Lemieux: Every season brings its memorable moments. One that stands out was the 2017 Canada 150 celebrations. The canal was a focal point for national festivities, and we had an influx of visitors from around the globe. It was a delight to see their faces light up as they learned about the canal’s history and witnessed its beauty firsthand. I also recall a particularly foggy morning in October 2019; navigating those waters required all my experience and skill. There’s a certain camaraderie among captains when you’re relying on instruments like radar and AIS (Automatic Identification Systems) to ensure safe passage.

Each of these experiences reinforces the importance of understanding the river’s nuances. For those interested in delving deeper into the canal’s heritage, our Rideau Canal UNESCO field guide provides an excellent resource. The guide offers insights into the historical and ecological significance of the canal, enhancing any visitor’s journey along this storied waterway.

What you actually see from the wheelhouse

Question: From the wheelhouse, what unique perspectives of Ottawa do you get that aren’t visible from the land?

Captain Marc-André Lemieux: The view from the wheelhouse is unlike any other, offering a perspective that reveals Ottawa’s natural and architectural beauty in a seamless blend. As we cruise past landmarks like the National Arts Centre and Parliament Hill, there’s an unparalleled view of these iconic structures rising from the water’s edge. In the mornings, the first light casts a golden hue on the buildings, accentuating their grandeur and details that are often missed from land.

From the water, the serenity of the river allows one to appreciate the abundance of nature that thrives alongside. Birds like the great blue heron are frequent companions, and one can often spot turtles sunning themselves on the banks. The riverbanks are lush with trees that paint a vivid picture, especially during the fall when the foliage bursts into a spectrum of reds and golds. Such moments underscore the things to do in Ottawa beyond the usual tourist trail, inviting visitors to engage with the city in a more intimate way.

Question: How does the experience of piloting a vessel differ from navigating a harbour like the St Lawrence?

Captain Marc-André Lemieux: While both environments present their own challenges, piloting on the Rideau is a more intimate experience. The canal is narrower, requiring precise manoeuvring and constant attention to the depth finder — the water levels can vary significantly. Unlike the vast and often industrial St Lawrence, the canal demands a keen eye for detail and a respect for the historical infrastructure, such as the locks and bridges.

Operating here also involves a different pace; it’s more about enjoying the journey than reaching the destination. This slower pace allows passengers to absorb the sights and sounds fully. On the St Lawrence, speed and efficiency are paramount, given its role as a major shipping route. The Rideau, in contrast, offers a glimpse into the peaceful coexistence of urban and natural landscapes, an experience that’s both rewarding and humbling.

Lock sequence and engineering questions

Question: Can you explain the lock sequence that vessels go through on a typical cruise?

Captain Marc-André Lemieux: Certainly. The Rideau Canal features 47 locks over its entire length, with the Ottawa section containing some of the most iconic ones. A typical cruise might pass through the Ottawa Locks, which consist of a flight of eight locks that lift vessels nearly 24 metres from the Ottawa River to the canal. This system, designed in the early 19th century, is still operated manually, a testament to its enduring engineering.

The process begins as we approach the lock station. We communicate with the Parks Canada lockmasters, who play a crucial role in coordinating the passage. Once given the go-ahead, the vessel enters the lock chamber. The gates close behind us, and water is either added or released to raise or lower the boat, depending on the direction of travel. This sequence can take anywhere from 10 to 20 minutes per lock, providing passengers with a fascinating look at the mechanics of water navigation.

Understanding the lock sequence deepens one’s appreciation for the canal’s engineering marvels. For those interested in learning more about the technical aspects, websites like voyage-canada.com offer detailed insights into Canadian waterways and their historical significance.

Question: What are some of the engineering challenges and innovations you’ve encountered on the canal?

Captain Marc-André Lemieux: One of the ongoing challenges is maintaining the canal’s heritage structures while ensuring they meet modern safety standards. Over the years, there have been numerous innovations, such as the integration of solar-powered systems to operate some of the lock gates. These advancements are crucial in preserving the canal’s historical integrity while enhancing its functionality.

Another interesting aspect is the regular dredging operations required to maintain the navigable depth. The canal’s original design did not anticipate today’s environmental conditions or the volume of traffic. Thus, balancing preservation with practical navigation needs remains a constant challenge. The introduction of GPS and modern navigation aids has significantly improved safety and efficiency, ensuring that the Rideau Canal remains a vital and vibrant part of Ottawa’s landscape.

As we delve further into the engineering feats that make the Rideau Canal a masterpiece of its time, we begin to see it not just as a route but as a living, breathing entity that continues to adapt and thrive in the heart of Canada’s capital.

Why the evening cruise reads differently

Question: Captain Lemieux, what makes the evening cruise on the Rideau River distinct from the daytime tours?

Captain Marc-André Lemieux: The evening cruise offers a unique perspective of Ottawa, transforming the cityscape into a shimmering vista under the twilight. As dusk falls, the landmarks such as the Parliament Buildings and the National Gallery are beautifully illuminated, casting a soft glow over the water. This lighting creates a serene and almost magical atmosphere, which is very different from the vibrant hustle and bustle you experience during the day.

The route for the evening cruise typically begins at 6:30 PM and lasts around two hours. We start at the foot of the Ottawa Locks, where the Rideau Canal meets the Ottawa River. Our course then winds along the canal and into the serene stretches of the Rideau River. The evening air often brings cooler temperatures, which are refreshing after a warm day exploring the city. The quietude of the night, interrupted only by the gentle lapping of water against the hull, allows passengers to relax and reflect on their day.

In the evening, the river takes on a reflective quality, mirroring the city lights, which is both beautiful and calming. The onboard commentary shifts focus as well, highlighting not only the historical significance of the landmarks but also their aesthetic and architectural beauty as seen in the evening light. The combination of visual and auditory experiences makes the evening cruise a deeply engaging way to connect with Ottawa.

The allure of the evening cruise lies in the intimacy of the setting. With fewer boats on the water and the gentle hum of conversation, passengers often find a sense of camaraderie that isn’t as pronounced during the day. Additionally, the evening cruise is popular for private events and can be a romantic choice for couples.

Question: Do the evening cruises operate year-round, and are there any special arrangements for different seasons?

Captain Marc-André Lemieux: Our evening cruises typically run from May through to mid-October. During these months, the temperatures are more conducive to an enjoyable experience on the water. The later sunsets in the summer months provide extended daylight, making the transition from day to night a highlight of the cruise. In May and October, when twilight arrives earlier, the cruise feels more intimate, as the darkness envelops the boat sooner.

While evening cruises do not operate in the winter months due to ice conditions, we make the most of the seasonal changes by adjusting our routes and commentary to reflect the natural beauty of the changing landscape. Spring and autumn offer their own charm, with blooming trees and vibrant fall foliage adding a splash of colour that enhances the experience.

For those interested in learning more about seasonal activities in Ottawa, our guide to things to do in Ottawa provides a comprehensive overview.

“On the water, the city reveals itself in layers, each one more intriguing as the sun sets.” — Captain Marc-André Lemieux

The shoulder seasons and shoulder hours

Question: How do the shoulder seasons influence the cruising experience on the Rideau River?

Captain Marc-André Lemieux: The shoulder seasons, which include late spring (May) and early autumn (September to mid-October), offer a distinct experience for our cruises. During these times, the weather is generally mild, and the landscapes are breathtakingly colourful. In spring, passengers can witness the awakening of nature with blossoming flowers and lush greenery, providing a picturesque backdrop that is perfect for photography.

Autumn, on the other hand, is a time when the landscape is painted in hues of red, orange, and yellow. The crisp air and the gentle rustle of leaves create a sensory experience that is both invigorating and calming. These months also tend to have fewer tourists, allowing for a more relaxed and personal experience on the water.

From a logistical standpoint, we adjust our operations to account for the shorter daylight hours and cooler temperatures. Our vessels are equipped with heating systems, ensuring passenger comfort even as the evenings grow chilly. We also offer blankets on board for those who wish to enjoy the outdoor decks.

The shoulder seasons are ideal for those who prefer to avoid the crowds and experience the natural beauty of the Rideau Canal and River at a more leisurely pace. For visitors planning a trip during these times, resources like voyage-canada.com provide valuable information on travel arrangements and seasonal highlights.

Question: Can you describe the significance of “shoulder hours” in your operations?

Captain Marc-André Lemieux: “Shoulder hours” refer to the times outside of peak cruising hours, typically early morning and late afternoon. These hours are strategically important for our scheduling, as they allow us to cater to different passenger preferences and manage our fleet’s operational efficiency.

Early morning cruises offer a tranquil start to the day, with the river often shrouded in a gentle mist that slowly dissipates as the sun rises. This time is particularly popular with photographers and those seeking a peaceful escape before the city awakens.

Late afternoon cruises, meanwhile, offer a different kind of allure. As the golden hour approaches, the light softens, casting a warm glow over the landscape. These cruises provide an excellent opportunity for passengers to unwind after a day of sightseeing, enjoying a relaxed pace as we glide along the water.

Operationally, shoulder hours help us maximise the utilisation of our vessels, allowing us to offer a greater number of cruises without overtaxing our resources. This approach ensures a sustainable balance between meeting demand and maintaining the quality of the experience.

Bookings, cancellations and practical advice

Question: What should potential passengers know about booking a cruise with Rideau Cruises Ltd?

Captain Marc-André Lemieux: Booking a cruise with us is a straightforward process. We recommend making reservations in advance, especially during the peak summer months, when demand is highest. Our online booking system allows passengers to select their preferred date and time, and receive an instant confirmation. Prices for our standard two-hour cruises start at $35 CAD for adults, with discounts available for seniors and children.

We also offer private charters, which are ideal for special occasions such as weddings or corporate events. These can be customised to include catering and entertainment options, providing a unique venue for memorable celebrations. It’s advisable to book these well in advance, as availability is limited.

For those interested in the historical and cultural significance of the canal, our Rideau Canal UNESCO field guide offers enriching insights that can enhance the cruising experience.

Question: How do you handle cancellations and what advice do you have for passengers planning their trip?

Captain Marc-André Lemieux: We understand that plans can change, and as such, we offer a flexible cancellation policy. Passengers can cancel or reschedule their booking up to 48 hours before departure without penalty. This policy provides peace of mind, especially for international visitors who may face unexpected travel disruptions.

However, we do encourage passengers to check weather conditions and plan accordingly. While our cruises operate rain or shine, severe weather can lead to cancellations for safety reasons. In such cases, we offer full refunds or the option to reschedule.

I advise passengers to dress in layers, as temperatures can vary throughout the day. Comfortable footwear is also recommended, as our vessels have both indoor and outdoor viewing areas. For those looking to extend their stay in Ottawa, our Parliament Hill heritage guide is an excellent resource for exploring the city’s rich history.

In reflecting on our conversation with Captain Lemieux, it’s clear that the Rideau River cruises offer a multifaceted experience that goes beyond mere sightseeing. The blend of natural beauty, architectural splendour, and historical richness provides visitors with a unique perspective on Ottawa, one that is both immersive and enlightening.

As a gateway to Canada’s capital, the Rideau River serves as a conduit for discovery, inviting travellers to explore the city’s layers at their own pace. Whether you choose the hushed elegance of an evening cruise or the vibrant colours of the shoulder seasons, the journey promises to be a memorable chapter in your exploration of Ottawa.